Sunday, July 18, 2010

The Body Signed By Pinky

weekend in Ilocos Norte





Life in roommate has not only drawbacks, and one of its main advantages, especially here, is that it allows you to live Philippine real life, and meet people you would never have known otherwise.
Thus, One of our roommate Ali, showed us this weekend his home province of Ilocos Norte, just north of the island of Luzon, considered one of the most beautiful in the country.



The 10 hour bus ride before arriving there we were not too scared since Saturday morning at 6am, we were already in the jeepeney before taking the subway, then two more jeepneys, before arriving at the bus station. From there we went on the National Highway, or what they regard as their highway with a speed limit .... attention listen to this 90 km / h !!!!!!!!!!
And yet, when it rolls, I think most of the journey was between 60 and 70, never mind, get out of Manila and see so many green landscapes, building free, it's so nice that there did not pay too much attention.




A man working in rice fields, 37 degrees, ...

After a break in a small restaurant where I tested for the first (but surely not the last) Siligan Fish soup with tomatoes, some kind of spinach, lots of ginger, and grilled fish. Really good.




We finally arrived at Ali (our housemate), and discovered another side of the Philippines, the Philippine rural poor, where the main source income is the salary of a member of the family, left to work in a call center for an American bank or I do not know what, in Manila.
Ali and financially supports at least 8 people ... including her 7 year old daughter that she sees only once a month, his mother, his little brother, and also assists many of his cousins, and other neighbors ( What kind rényon the family) has supplement their incomes.


On land, three "houses", and finally three buildings with four brick wall, and very little furniture, which I do not know how many people live. But we feel that Ali is needed, working every night Manila, with an average of 4 hours of sleep, when she comes here, he quickly emptied his hard-earned wages, and she still wants to not be able to send his brother and sister in private school ...
From left to right, Ali, her daughter, Yasmine, Melanie, Minami, and Marie Laure.

Turning these pinching heart, her family is adorable, great being more timid than children, because of the language barrier, which finally coming out of Manila is quite important. With children is more simple, few words and one starts playing, and they faring very well in English (much better than the French at that age).

The great grand father Ali is a wise old man, he fought with the Japanese during World War II, so he knows speak Japanese, and he speaks perfect English ... awesome .

The rest of the village was not so used to seeing white pass it quickly becomes quite the attraction! Cousins and brothers of Ali are so proud to go with girls with fair skin they take us everywhere.


is improved, as and when our Tagalog, still very poor.

The next day, a brother of Ali van takes us on a magical beach, Pagudpud, supposedly a place of Philippine tourism, but nobody on the beach 'It's Not The Good season M'am' Indeed, it is the rainy season ... but hey, when it rains after 4am, it's still acceptable, at least for us!

's little brother Ali.

On the way, we made a number of tourist stops, including one in front of a wind farm on the beach.


I must tell you a story here.
Before the advent of some form of democracy in the Philippines in 1986 with the coming to power of Cory Aquino (grandmother of the new president), the Philippines was under the yoke of a violent dictatorship, during which about 50 000 opponents were imprisoned, exiled or killed.
In fact, after the violent period of the 2 nd World War, including the Philippines have been a key theater of fighting Japanese-American, even if European history was somewhat overshadowed, Manila is part of Cities martyrs, like Hamburg and Hiroshima.
In 1965 Ferdinand Marcos, a lawyer from a prominent family of Ilocos Norte is elected, bringing hope to regain their past glory in the Philippines. With his wife Imelda, they seek to regain its momentum in Manila before the war, without real success, despite some cultural investment, as the Cultural Center of the Philippines, or renovation of the house of Juan Luna, the great painter Philippines (pictuuuree).
However, hope is short lived, and events take place in 1970, against growing poverty, skyrocketing prices, and rampant corruption. Marcos, however, is supported by the U.S. (always there to make things better is not it ????), for his efforts to remove the NPA (Communist New People's Army).
Martial law was imposed in 1972, and Marcos continues and in power until 1981, when martial law is there to calm the riots approaching.
It then creates a semblance of democracy that allows him to win the mock election (no free press or opposition). The leader of the opposition, Benigno Aquino Jr. was assassinated upon his return from exile in 1973. His widow, the famous Cory, won the presidency three years later, after a peaceful revolution and Imelda Marcos is forced to flee the Philippines to the United States.
Millions on bank accounts, or jewelry is always in the hands of Imelda Marcos's widow, and children, however, they live quietly in the Philippines.

better than that. Indeed, this is the Western version of the case. The Philippine version, especially that of the inhabitants of Ilocos Norte is totally different.
The Marcos family is respected, even late, we regret the time you could buy things with parts 25cent pesos, whereas today, even children no longer want it, we regret the Marcos period, as they seemed to be with people, not only with the wealthy families. And Marcos (Imelda, and her children),


are always great political figures of Ilocos Norte, whether of senators or governors. Filipinos do not want them for what Ferdinand did, they believe in the possibility of a different ... to see!
However, it is true that given the pervasive corruption, and at all levels of politics, Ferdinand Marcos was not a lot out of the lot ...

whole story to say that wind turbines of Ilocos Norte, qui constituent une véritable attraction touristiques, ont été mises en fonctionnement par Imelda Marcos….à méditer : souverain éclairé ?

De retour à la maison, une pluie torrentielle s’abat sur nous, et en moins de 10 min, on a au moins 10 centimètres d’eau dans la rue, et dans la cour, je commence à voir ce que va être notre saison des pluies !!
On part quand même, gourmands que nous sommes, à la recherche des fameuses empanadas (on retrouve, ici encore, l’importante influence espagnole, à la sauce philippine). 


These kinds of shoes salty orange (colors) are stuffed with green papaya, egg, mung bean and longanisa (sausages). And it's really good too! Ali's mother also cooked us a ton of good things, including a dish with meat and pork liver sautéed ... a true delight!



Our last day in Ilocos Norte was the discovery of Philippine pace in all his splendor! Wake up at 7am, hoping to reach the beach before the heat. The house is already awake, we are not yet at the right pace! But before leaving, you must:
- check if the sea is calm (1h)
- go shopping because nothing to eat on a desert island (30min)
- cooking (2h)! or how to get noticed by boys of the house by helping to cook!
- find a means of transport to get to the beach (30min), in this case an old jeep output is nowhere; prise à 15 !
-           arriver entier au ‘port’, en passant devant la Highway Patrol (après une négociation dont on n’a connu la réalité que le soir : notre chauffeur avait raconté aux policiers que nous étions des visiteurs du fils du maire… et un grand sourire de blanche… et tout passe ! heureusement pour lui, car en plus d’être over loaded, sa voiture n’était même pas enregistrée) : compter au moins 45min
-           négocier avec les chauffeurs des barques pour le prix (qui finalement n’a pas bougé) + récupérer l’essence (30 min).

Nous voilà donc parti, aux alentours de midi, et donc en plein soleil, sur une petite bangka, pas très rassurante, mais vers une île déserte aux airs de paradis.


On dépose les marmites sur le sable, and keep the water! Snorkeling, and small fish are mine! Then back to the beach to enjoy the meal deserves.

Relax, and return with the first drops of rain. Scare: will there be enough fuel to reach the beach?

To finish your day, visit the house of Juan Luna, one of the national hero, a great painter, house renovated by (guess ....) Imelda Marcos! ! but quite impressive to find this kind of museum here.

Back in Manila during the night .... By 7am only (I have not dared look the counter ...).

Lessons from this weekend: NEVER forget that the bus is 17 (although it's 30 outside), to form an unfailing patience, be open to all opportunities smiling a white happening everywhere, and most importantly, Filipinos are adorable, even if they win in a year that an average French wins in one week, they know they may have no chance change the situation, they are beautifully gentle, and open and share their culture and smile freely.
Photos of a former Philippine home, with "ventanillas" kinds of wood panels and paper, which act as windows.

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